Now I Have a Set

My next project after my hat was a pair of matching fingerless gloves. I used this free pattern, that is knit flat and seamed together. I only had straight needles at the time, so my options were limited. However, I really like this pattern. It is fast, easy and easy to modify.

Since my yarn was bulkier than the yarn called for in the pattern, I used my guage from my hat, and cast on about 25% less stitched. I then followed the pattern as is, but with 25% less everything (stitches, increases, rows, etc). It worked out really well actually!

The bulky yarn is pretty, but I think that it kind of makes my hands look chubby. But I don’t care, they are really mostly used while at work, so my fingers don’t freeze at the keyboard!

Mrrrooow!

*Drum roll please*

Here is my first knit project! I didn’t post her, because I had yet to figure out how I wanted to do her face. I was sorting though my ‘craft closet’ (it is a wardrobe with tools, extra linens and craft supplies) and I saw that I had pink, black-brown and light grey felting wool, and some needles for needle felting. I decided to see if I could needle felt onto acrylic, and it worked!!

I am so incredibly happy how this pattern came out. So much cuteness for so little effort!

Pattern for the knit kitty

First Ever Knit Hat

Well, I finally bit the bullet and learned to knit. After 6+ years of trying, I decided to make a go at continental, and it clicked. I still had issues with purling, so after much Googling, I discovered Norwegian Purling (scroll down), and again, it  clicked.

My first actual project was the Garter Stitch Kitty, but I don’t have pictures of that yet. My second project was the hat, Gothcha covered. It is a beanie, but I knit it extra long (and without the folded cuff) to make it a slouchy hat. Here’s what I learned:

• I originally chose the woman’s size, but it was WAY too small. I chose the men’s size, but it is still a bit small. I think I should have cast on at least 4 more stitches.
• I shortened the ribbing, and only knit it 7 inches before the decreases. I like the length!
• I knit too many rows, and tried my hand at unraveling rows, but somehow ended up twisting every since stitch on the row. I ended up untwisting each stitch as I knit it. Need more practice at frogging correctly.
• I somehow managed to increase 2 stitches randomly, which left a big hole. I just decreased later, and stitched up the hole, so no worries!
• I learned how to decrease in 2 different ways:)
• I learned the mattress stitch.

Overall, a really great learning project.

Morton “Patchy” Minibear

Morton lost his eye in a freak embroidery accident, so DON’T CALL HIM A PIRATE!! (It is a sensitive subject for him).

I used this pattern. I couldn’t get his right eye to look decent, and I tried so many times he was left with a mangled mess where his eye should be. Finally, I said "screw it", and crocheted him an eye patch with the embroidery thread. I quite like the way he turned out:)

<3 <3 <3

I made this necklace using this necklace pattern. The heart is from here. I decided to use a heart instead of the flower. I love it! Although, it is really difficult to keep straight, because the weight of the heart makes it fall to the center. I’m thinking of ways to add a counter weight, something invisible, because I like it exactly as it is.

New York Noro Plaid

MMMmmm, Noro. I love the colors of this yarn, but I’m a bit disappointed with the feel of it. I guess since I’m very allergic to wool, no wool yarn will ever feel yummy to me.

I originally bought this skein of yarn for the wavelength, but it was just taking me too long. The thing kept twisting severely, and every row I’d have to spend 5 minutes straightening it. Luckily, I found I way to both show off the lovely colors, and also use nearly 100% of the skein! Basically, I capitalized on the natural gradients of the noro, and made a sort of ‘plaid’. The results are easy and beautiful!

Here is the super simple pattern, sized so it uses as much of the skein as safely possible:

Noro Plaid Scarf

1 skein Noro Kureyon Sock

Size f crochet hook

Finished measurements: approx 7 in. x 51 in.

Row 1: ch 43

Row 2: dc 2nd ch from hook. *ch 1, skip next st, dc 1* repeat across

Row 3: ch 4 (this counts as first dc and ch). *dc 1, skip next st, ch 1* repeat across
(Basically, you are making a dc mesh, like in filet crochet)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 just row 3 (thanks emy!) until the scarf reaches about 51 inches long.

Now, there are many ways you can do the vertical weaving. I chose to make long chains, to keep the integrity of the gradient, but you could replace the chains with 2 or 3 stands of yarn. It is your choice whether you want fringe, but remember, this scarf uses most of the skein, so keep that decision until the end.

If you are weaving in chains here are some options:

• Chain one super long chain, and wind into a ball to use, cutting the length as you go
• Chain single lengths and make them as you need them
• Chain double lengths and weave both ends, so you have two less ends to weave in

Basically, take the chains or strands of yarn, and weave them in and out of the mesh boxes, lengthwise. Make sure to alternate the starting direction for each column. Secure the ends of the chains by making a knot, and weave in the loose ends of the chain back into itself.

This all sounds much more complicated than it actually is! Here are some more pictures. NOTE: These pictures are of the unblocked scarf! I will try to replace them with better quality ones when I get a chance.

Filed under Crochet, Free Patterns, Hats and Scarves, My Projects | Comments (15)

Taking Pictures of your Hands is Incredibly Difficult

Pretty much exactly what the title says! I made some fun lacy fingerless gloves to keep my hands toasty while I type at work. I’m wearing them right now, and I have to say they are quite effective. I used this pattern and made them using the instructions to make them smaller. I guess I have incredibly small hands, because I had to remove two rows of shells! One from the palm area, and one after the thumb opening. I used the same Lion Brand Cashmere Blend yarn from my slouchy hat, and this stuff really is bliss to crochet with. It takes about one skein of the yarn, so this pattern is a great for a nice-but-pricey yarn!

One tip: don’t bother cutting the yarn after the wrist ribbing. Simple slip stitch one stitch over, and begin the shells from there. The seam is barely noticeable, and then you have four less ends to weave in.

Long Time No See

Crocheted Bone, originally uploaded by craftypants.

I’ve been terrible, and haven’t been crafting as much as I would want. Having a “real life” job takes some getting used to!

I did however make this wee crocheted doggie bone for my co-worker’s dog, Romeo. Here is the “recipe” since it is really just a teensy tiny modification of another pattern.

Crocheted Dog Bone
worsted weight yarn
F or G hook depending on yarn weight

1. Crochet Pepika’s 3D Heart, but stop at rnd 9
2. Continue crocheting in a spiral for about 10 rows
3. Crochet another 3D heart, also stopping at rnd 9
4. Stuff both pieces and sew together!

That’s it! Alternatively, you can crochet both halves for 5 rows after rnd 9, so the seam is in the middle. Your choice.

Romeo is a teeny timy dog, so he couldn’t chew through this thing. However, I would supervise larger dogs to ensure they can’t get to the polyfil inside.

Thanks to much to Pepika for posting the original heart pattern.

Here’s some in action pictures:

Stumpy the Swab Stasher

Remember Owly? Well, he now has a buddy that is adept at hiding cottony stuff too!

Along with my cotton puffs, I use cotton swabs quite often for makeup application. So of course, I had to make myself something to hold those, too. Who wants an icky cardboard/plastic box on your counter?

I made stumpy using Lionbrand Lionsuede, which has a great texture and gives a very sturdy result. The pattern is quite easy, so here it is, incase you’d like a stump to hide your cottony treasures in:

Stumpy the Swab Stasher

Yarn: Bulky (Lionbrand Lionsuede)
Hook size: G

Special stitch: Bpdc, Fpdc

Main Stump:

1: With light color: ch 4. In 1st chain (4th from hook) dc 15. Join with sl st. (this makes a circle).

2: With main color: Bpdc around each post of each dc [15]. Join with sl st.

3: Fpdc around each post of each dc [15]. Join with sl st.

4: repeat row 3 until the stump is the height you like. Mine was 7-8 rows. Finish.

Little Branch:

1: With light color: ch 2. In 2nd ch from hook, sc 5.

2: With main color: sc in each st around until branch is the length you desire. Sew branch to stump

And that’s it! I’ll try and get the owl pattern up soon, but I want to experiment some more, possibly with felting, or using lion suede…

Pretty Puffs Slouchy Hat (with pattern!)

Two-point-five weeks into my life in San Francisco, and I got a great job! I’m very excited to start, but I still have a few days left of ‘vacation’. I had fun the first week wandering around. I still love to explore, but I’ve had to limit myself, because I really haven’t any moola yet. With all these amazing shops around, no one in their right mind could resist, so I had to quarantine myself. To ease my ‘new stuff’ desire, I decided to make something new.

I made it with Lion Brand Cashmere Blend, which I got on sale for 60% off. I used about 1.5 skeins, so I might have enough left over to make a matching one for a Christmas present.

Puffy Slouchy Hat
Bulky weight yarn, size J hook. For Worsted weight use a K hook.

The numbers in the [] say how many stitches there should be.

Puff stitch: (YO, insert hook in next st, YO, pull up a loop) 4 times, YO, and draw through all loops on hook. (Here’s a video)

You do not have to join rounds, and this will create a spiral, and there will be no seam. Use a stitch marker if you do this, and keep the stitch count the same.

NOTE: Lion Brand Cashmere Blend is slightly bulkier than regular worsted weight, and it has more drape. If you are going to use yarn like Vanna’s Choice, I recommend adding another increase round after round 5:

extra round 5.5: ch3, work 1 dc where chain is, (work 1 dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc) around. Join. [72]

1: ch 4, 12 dc in first st, join in ch. (Just grab one loop from top of the chain. This makes the seam less visible, and this will make a circle.) [12]

2: ch 3, work 1 dc where chain is (in same st as join – ch3 counts as first dc), 2 dc in each stitch, join with sl st (remember, the ch counts as a st!). [24]

3: ch 3, work 1 dc where chain is, (work 1 dc, 2 dc in next stitch) around. Join. [36]

4: ch 3, work 1 dc where chain is, (work 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st) around. Join. [48]

5: ch3, work 1 dc where chain is, (work 1 dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc) around. Join. [60]

6: ch 3, 1 dc in each st around. Join. [60]

7: ch 3, 1 dc in each st around. Join. [60]

8: ch 3, 1 dc in each st around. Join. [60]

9: ch 3, puff st in same st as join, dc in next st, (puff in next st, dc in next
st) around. Join in top st of first puff. [60 sts: 30 puffs, 30 dc]

10: ch 1, (sc in top of puff, sc in next dc) around. Join. [60]
* It will look like you are skipping stitches here, but you aren’t. Just
remember, sc in top of puff, skip spot, and sc in top of dc post. Make sure you have 60 sts here!

11: same as row 9. [60 sts: 30 puffs, 30 dc]

12: sc around, same as row 10. [60]

13: same as row 9. [30 puffs, 30 dc]

14: sc around, same as row 10. [60]

15: ch 1, sc in each st around. [60]

16: ch 1, (sc in next 3 sts, dec over next 2 sts) around. Join. [48]

17: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. [48]

18: same as row 17. [48]

19: same as row 17. [48]

20: same as row 17. [48]

21: ch 1, (slip st in next st, ch1, slip st in same st) around. Join in first sc.
Fasten off, weave in ends.

NOTE: As I mentioned in my original craftster post, I had intensely studied a pattern online. I don’t have a printer, so I tried to visualize it as a crochet chart. I have an insane memory, and graduated with a 3.98 GPA by only reading the texts the night before the tests. When I made this hat, I thought I was only being inspired, but I essentially recreated the hat. People have pointed it out, and I am very disappointed that I wasn’t being creative, I was just recalling it. SO, all accolades should go to the original author here: http://patternsbydot.blogspot.com/2005/11/bobble-beauty.html. My sincere apologies. I know it’s hard to believe, but it wasn’t intentional at all. I posted this at craftster, but I never got around to posting it here. :/